Maintainence is a rough and horrible process. You must take oil and place 3 drops down the asa, dry fire about 30 times and the gun is good to go.
Basically there's a difference in The valve and bolts:
The Classic Valve (the first valve AGD made) Is your simple valve that has a awesome internal regulator and can operate on CO2 and High Preasure Air. It does not have the "RT" effect.
The All other Valves (im fairly certain) require HP air and cannot run on CO2. Especially the E-Max Valve and XValve. They have the "RT" effect and can accept the ULT kit.
The Lvl 7 bolt was the starting bolt that didnt have an Anti-chop function, but worked well.
The Lvl 10 bolt is an amazing bolt that, when tuned properly, will elminate chops all together. Amazing technology.
Real maintenance requires a bit more than that. LOL. But for the most part, they just usually need oil. Maintenance is really easy. Unscrew the thumb screw in the back, the whole reg/valve assembly slides out the back. You have three main areas: the reg, the on/off, and the bolt. Only a few o-rings in each. EXTREMELY easy. Easiest gun to work on that I've ever seen.
The classic valve (68 Automag, Minimag and a few others) can run on CO2. But they don't like it. At all. HPA is recommended. The RT, X, and Emag valves all require HPA.
hmmmm..... How does the RT effect work on these?
The trigger weight comes from the on/off pin. In the X valve (I use this as a blanket term for all newer valves), the dump chamber controls the shut off of the reg. So before firing, you are pulling against the regulated pressure (400 psi about). As soon as you fire, the dump chamber dumps and the reg opens. Your on/off pin is now pushed by your unregulated pressure (800psi or more). So you have much more pushing the trigger back than you felt while pulling. Your reg quickly stabilizes and the pressure drops to 400 again. It just gives it a kick on the reset.
